2 Weeks Into Japan

I arrived in Japan 2 weeks ago via the JET Program, a Japanese government-run program for young adults from English-speaking countries worldwide. Loads of info can be found about it here, but the basic idea is that they want native speakers to teach their kids English and broaden their cultural horizons. It took me a year to get through the application process and overall it's a sweet deal - I'm very well taken care of, especially considering that I'm only being asked to speak English with kids for a few hours a day.


WHY ARE YOU GOING TO JAPAN?

Before I left, not a day went by that someone didn't ask why I was going to Japan. I never knew how to answer truthfully and without coming off like a crazy asshole. My most truthful answer was, "I don't know, I'm just going!" but even that isn't the complete answer, and it certainly isn't satisfying to most people in the context of making conversation.

To better express myself, I could rhetorically ask the asker why they became a doctor, or went skiing, or bought that shirt, with the intention of pointing out that we can't ever say why we want what we want, or accordingly, why we do what we do. Desires bubble up from somewhere beyond our reason or control, and only afterwards does our mind manufacture reasons to give credibility to that desire.

To be sure, I've manufactured as many reasons for going as times I've been asked: "I want to take some time off practicing law and travel," "The JET Program is an amazing opportunity I couldn't pass up," "I'm going to have a fun adventure and travel all around Asia," "I want to learn about and experience a fascinating culture," "for the chicks." Trust me, I could go on for pages and give you many impressive reasons, but none of them feel authentic to me (even... especially... the one about coming for the chicks, as surprising as that might be). In all honesty, I didn't come to Japan as a means to anything at all.

Finally, on the eve of my departure, I had a conversation about it with my Dad and expressed my frustration with the question "why are you going to Japan." He suggested the perfect answer:

"I'll let you know when I get back."


WHAT'S YOUR LIFE LIKE IN JAPAN, DUDE?

I've only been here 2 weeks, but real nice so far, bro!

As I didn't make any special requests and left things up to chance, I was placed on a small island called Izena, an hour ferry ride north of the main island of Okinawa. About 1,700 people live on the island, and the community here is tight. In fact, I have never experienced anything like this. Life here is centered around family, especially the kids, and community events, especially the annual "Izena 88 Triathlon." They took me in right away - I have been treated with great kindness, and been given gifts and taken out for food and drinks from the moment I set foot here. Once at lunchtime, a random guy knocked on the door and delivered a welcome bento meal. (As I am writing this, a neighbor came by and gave me a watermelon - fruit is a major gift in Japan - a small watermelon costs $10).

Izena has one police man, and his main job seems to be greeting the ferry at the port when it arrives twice a day. He has a tiny police car, but I don't think he could fit anyone in it if he actually made an arrest. People leave their doors unlocked and bikes lying in the grass here.

I was provided with a house near the center of the island. It has two "tatami" rooms, a full kitchen, and separate rooms for the shower and toilet (regular kind of toilet, not hole in the floor, though I've seen that around). Tatami is the thick straw mat they have on the floor instead of carpet in the living areas. I have no furniture other than a low table and various mats. I sleep on a Japanese futon, a thin (2 inches) mattress on the tatami. I have a good A/C and a very fast internet connection.

The roads and buildings here are true to Japanese stereotype - very well maintained and efficient. There are a few hills/mountains on the island with hiking trails, and they are all perfectly kept and even fitted with winding concrete steps formed and colored to look like logs. I've been out there a few times already and have yet to see anyone else using them.

I think in general, the Japanese create jobs so that people will have something to do, rather than create jobs to get things done. On Izena, there are only a junior high and elementary school, each with 8 teachers. Next door there is the Board of Education building, twice the size of the schools and with at least 25 employees. I don't get it.

The second night I was here, I was invited to a big welcome party. As the party started, I figured out that it was taking place at my house, as all of the teachers arrived bearing food and drinks. We barbecued freshly caught fish and various mussels and crustaceans, and one of the teachers brought a projector so we watched the opening ceremonies of the Olympics on the wall. I played some ukulele for them. It was beautiful.

A common polite remark in Japan is to say "jodzu," which roughly means, "skilled." They often say this about my feeble Japanese speaking ability, and after seeing any white boy use chopsticks. The polite response to jodzu is to essentially say "no, I'm not really that good, but thanks." In one way or another, this is part of almost every conversation I have.

I have been training for the big triathlon for a few days now. The locals brought a great coach from Tokyo named Chiba-san, with his wife, the world-ranked Japanese national triathlon champion. I've had a lot of swim coaches, and this guy seriously knows what he's doing. Many of the guys on the island even bought $2,000+ bikes, and we trained together this morning and they're not that good at biking (I suck at biking so I can smell my own kind). They just take this triathlon VERY seriously. They are all amazed by my swimming ability, which is 11 years in remission (I spent 8 years of my youth training as a swimmer in Florida), so I've started getting what I now call "The Super Jodzu," which includes wide-eyed stares, pokes, pats on the shoulder, and the precursor "WAAAAAAAA! JOODZUU!" Several people have called me "Mikaru Pherpsu," to which I laugh out loud and pat my very non-Michael Phelps-like belly.

For the raunchy-minded readers who have gotten this far, I have been propositioned by 2 street hookers (Shinjuku area in Tokyo and Naha), offered a happy ending at the end of a massage (Shinjuku), and witnessed a street fight involving 5 or 6 young gangster-type Japanese teenagers in suits and black ties (Naha). Even though I didn't partake, my raunchy mind is satisfied and I hope yours got a little fix.

It's been an interesting 2 weeks and I could write loads more about my experiences and observations. I have a lot more to say about this island especially. All in all, I'm having a good time. Through the miracle of the internet I get to keep in contact with friends and family. I'm as happy as I was when I left, which was as happy as I know to be. I enjoy the quiet here, the slow and easy pace, and the emphasis on people, family, friendships, and supporting the community. I am still finding my groove, of course, but other than training for a triathlon, I'm not sure what that is. I'll let you know when I get back.